Epic. Today was beyond description, and may lame photographic skills cannot even begin to do justice to what we rode through today. Plus, it was hard to pull over to take photos since we were just riding that sweet, smooth groove all day. All of the mountains we’d seen before today were but little hills. I look back at how awed we were by the scenery of each previous day, and I think, aww, we were so young and naïve back then. Welcome to the Yukon. For real.
At times, I am absolutely overwhelmed in my helmet. Like a kid seeing the Christmas pile for the first moment, only for hours. Maybe this is what it feels like to be fully present in the moment with nothing else getting in the way. Pure freedom.
Wecided to drop the hammer this morning and just enjoy the ride. No photos, no getting on and off the bike. Just riding as the miles fell away like wax on a candle delivering a fleeting flame burning now then gone but not forgotten.
Funny experience. Walked up to the gas pumps and there were no credit card slots and no one was around, and I looked over to Brad – how does this work, do we just pump? I don’t know. So I wandered inside and asked the woman frying bacon how this works. She looked at me like I asked how to tie my shoes and said, you pump the gas, come in and tell me how much you pumped, and then you wait till I’m done cooking to pay. Ok, I can do that. The fact that she could have kicked my ass in any competition we dreamed up made her orders easier to follow. Fear is a great motivator. But you gotta love that you just tell them how much gas you pumped. No cameras, no pay first, no locks on the bathroom doors with tire irons attached so you don’t steal the key. Just real, simple, hard living.

Our first mosse sighting. AWESOME. This is Millie the moose, and her little guy is just out of the shot.
Saw a coyote on the side of the road looking so small and sweet and cowering a bit, and it tugged at my heart thinking of this relatively tiny wild animal all alone in this way too big harsh land. Then I realized that if he were with ten of his friends, they’d happily rip out my heart and serve it up with a side of farva beans. That made me feel better, but I still wanted to run over and nuzzle em. Then again it might have been a minx, or a fox or some other furry dog-like creature. Whatever. No matter.
Thinking about my mom today while riding and how these kinds of trips make her a nervous wreck while she worries until I come home. She never liked the idea of motorcycles much less riding one to the Arctic Ocean. But through all my trips, she’s never tried to get in the way or talk me out of it. She even went with me to pick up my first GS, and she bought the jacket I ride in along with other gear of which she doesn’t even know the use. Mom, I love my cramp buster! So instead of fighting it, she got involed in it and became a part of it. Now she’s always with me in a way when I’m riding, and I think that’s pretty cool. Thanks Mom.
We finally arrived through yet more spectacular riding in Beaver Creek, Yukon. Abut 5 miles as the moose walks (yea, get it?) from Alaska, but about 25 from the border on the road. We settle on the place run by Pakistanis, and for some reason they’re inclined to keep the spartan cafeteria-like dining room at a balmy 87 degrees. And it smells really funny. So, we meander across the street where we then procede to be completely over-served by an evil temptress named Chanty (Shanty? Chandy?). Do NOT be fooled by that smile – just look at my droopy eyes, and you can see she’s proud of her work. I have mentioned the many dangers of the north – you can add this one to the list.
We also met Sasquatch. Or at least, he had the hands of Sasquatch. He claimed he was former Australian secret service. I shook that hand, so I’ll believe whatever he wants. Not sure what kind of things that hand has done, but I may not want to know.
Not sure if I’ve mentioned this before, but last night it was light out (to some degree) until almost 2am. Perhaps that had something to do with our beer consumption. It was either that or ChandyShandyChanty – I am, of course, the victim here.
Great day. I only wish I could capture the massive scale and beauty we’re riding through. Hopefully you can at least get some idea.
And, finally, where we ended our day:
Almost forgot!! Our first full Mountie!











Brad, you’re a true iconoclast, you amaze me. xoxo
love the mom advice, I will keep that in mind. Though I sincerely hope my boys don’t ever choose the wide open road on a motorcycle : )