“Only a fool blames his bad vacation on the rain” –Paul Theroux, To the Ends of the Earth “Travel is not a vacation, and it is often the opposite of a rest.” –Paul Theroux, The Old Patagonian Express “It’s 42 degrees. It’s raining. You can’t see shit. It’s beautiful isn’t?” –Brad Lunsford, The Long Road Up, 2011
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Very fitting quotes for today’s ride…
The day started normally – I nutted myself in the shower again. Seriously, is someone playing a practical joke on me? I need to start wearing a junk helmet in the shower.
The day started in the rain, and then it rained more, and then it quit raining just long enough to start raining again. It rained ALL day. At times, it was raining, and then started raining again, so it was raining twice, at the same time. By the end of the day, water had penetrated EVERYTHING. 11 hours riding in rain. That’s what today was about – the rain. We missed what might have been some of the best views of the trip through the low clouds – we couldn’t see much past the trees lining the side of the road. And we had Wrangell Wilderness on our left all day that we couldn’t see. Oh well. Another reason to come back. We have been pretty outrageously lucky so far on the trip. And actually, it was almost kind of nice leaving in the rain. We just suited up and started to ride. No photo ops. Just riding. Smooth, slowed down riding.
How about some moose fun facts?? I think I’ve become a bit obsessed by this massive mammal.
- Life span: 15-25 years
Weight: 550-700 kg (1200-1500 lbs)
Body length: 2.5-2.7 metres - Height at the shoulders generally ranges between 6 ½-7 ½ feet (over 2 metres). Seems about right to me.
- They are good swimmers, able to sustain a speed of 6 miles per hour (10 km/h), and can run up to 35 miles per hour (55 km/h). (I take issue with this – I have it documented that they can run 40 miles per hour.)
- Their eyesight is poor but their hearing and sense of smell are excellent and so compensate. (I can attest to this.)
- Some population studies have shown that bears can kill up to 75 percent of newborns in their first eight weeks of life. Stupid bears.
- Mature males shed their antlers once a year in November/December and replace them with new larger ones in the Spring. Their main function is for display during the mating season and dominance within the herd. Wouldn’t it be great if we could just grow antlers and determine the whole courting process that way? I’d have the biggest, coolest antlers. I’d hang ornaments on them and light them up. I’d paint them special colors according to the season, and I’d make sure they glowed in the dark. Those cows would be hopeless against my massive antler show. I’d almost feel sorry for them.
AS we’re heading out of Naidine’s place, the entire staff was saying goodbye with, “don’t hit a moose! Watch out for moose! Have a safe trip!” Awesome people. I think they were genuinely concerned. Seems like every place we go we have a good time with the local peeps. Then I see a bald eagle soaring high above the land as I walk to my cabin. Ahh. If you can avoid moose, this is an amazing place, even in the rain.
It was a pretty uneventful day, and we pulled back into the Yukon around 7pm. I must say that seeing the sign for the YUKON had the same effect on my coming down as going up. I mean, it’s the Yukon man.
We decided to stay again in Beaver Creek where we’d stayed on the way up. If you recall, this was where that evil seductress named Shandy ran us over. We knew we were playing with fire by going back. This great risk is akin to running through the Alaskan wilderness wearing nothing but raspberry underpants and a meat belt. But we were up for the challenge – we didn’t come to the Yukon to sit on the sidelines.
Luckily, Shandy wasn’t working, but seeing our friend Shauna (spelling? Sorry Shauna if I butchered that) behind the bar made us just as nervous. Last time we were up, we partied with this vixen, so we knew what she’s capable of. But, she was chock full of kindness for two weary travelers just beginning their long voyage home. And look at that photo. I mean, seriously? Of course, she did still do some damage to us, but not over the top. Besides, perhaps, and I’m not certain of this, but perhaps we should take some of the blame for our evening troubles. We had a great night and she really helped me out. Shauna, I hope I can return the favor someday. Greatly appreciated. (All you pervs out there, stop reading into that. Good greif. What’s wrong with you?)
While we were hanging out at Shauna’s bar, I got the chance to meet a nice couple up from somewhere (can’t remember), and the woman has a service Chihuahua. Yup, you read that right. Apparently, the dog can sense when her blood pressure goes up and craws up on her neck to bring it back in check. Think it would be weird if I carried one of those around while I’m working? Might raise a few eyebrows…
Sleep was fast, even in our miniature beds next to our miniature bathrooms. We felt like big ogres in this place. Seriously, it was like we were a couple of Gullivers – mini-sink, mini-tub, mini-soap. If you’re ever in Beaver Creek, Yukon Territories, follow my advice – we have scouted this out and are experienced. Stay with the Pakistanis at Ida’s (free internet in their too-hot cafeteria, but decent coffee, and full-size rooms that are Ritz-luxury compared to the Westmark where we stayed. Then, go have drinks with the ladies at the Rec Room at the Westmark. If you can’t have fun doing this, stop what you’re doing, sit down on a sharp stick and punch yourself in the face. You’re hopeless. If you do go, please tell Shandy and Shauna that Eric and Brad say hello (mostly Eric).
Here’s the map update – zoomed in a bit since we don’t seem to be making much ground right now… We made it to “O” on the map. Heh.






I think Cafe Moosehead has an interesting ring to it. Saw Cooper Eric tonight; he is beautiful. He was asking for you. I’m not sure if he sleeps. I’m thinking that next year I should go with you.
Can’t wait to meet him! And you’re invited Dad!
I know “Daddy Wags” worries about you and the moose experience, slick dirt road riding, the things Shauna did to you, etc., etc., only heighten his concern. Instead of taking him along next year I think I should go to keep an eye on things. The pictures give me the fever to go back to Alaska especially since you are in a part of the state that we never got to. We spent time in Denali and had some postcard perfect views of McKinely (since the mnt. produces it’s own weather only 15% of visitors ever see the actaul mtn.), but dind’t get to the remote places you’ve experienced. Have you considered adding “fresh alaskan moose” to one of your menu’s? Continue to ride safe!
Sounds great John. I think Brad and I definitely need a chaperone, but from what I hear, you might be just as good at getting in trouble…
It’s an amazing place, Alaska.
Like I keep telling my wife; I may grow old but I’ll never grow up! and, the day I have to switch to “trike” to ride motorcycles is the day I quit riding. I’m going to start riding my goldwing on the wet grass in my yard to start preparing for my eventual trip to Alaska.
It is a beautious evening, calm and free.
The holy time is quiet as a nun
Breathless with adoration. The broad sun
Is sinking down in his tranquility…….
Wallace Stegner, Crossing To Safety
1987