Author Archives: ericgwagner

I think we were the only two sober dudes in western South Dakota last night, and I’m pretty glad for that.  We awake to a spectacularly blue sky and have a long freeway day ahead of us.  A couple of … Continue reading →

Today’s quote:  “I have found out that there ain’t no surer way to find out whether you like people or hate them than to travel with them.” — Mark Twain. The beautiful sun-drenched Billings morning could do nothing to dent … Continue reading →

This morning came a bit early with Brad banging on my door.  What an asshole.  Ok, it was 9:30, so I guess it was time to get going.  A quick crepe in town (yea, we’re pretty sophisticated), and we’re on … Continue reading →

We awoke in Jasper feeling great about our mature decision making the night before and got a decently early start (for us).  As we emerged from Jasper, we were instantly greeted with what was maybe the best riding of the … Continue reading →

Good morning!  Ok, this does not mean you can stop reading the blog! (There are still about four days I need to post.) But, we’re coming into Milwaukee tonight, if all goes well.  We’re planning to hit Cafe Hollander sometime … Continue reading →

It is amazing how much your outlook changes when you actually get some sleep!  Today the ride home does not seem nearly as daunting.  The sun is shining, and we have a beautiful road in front of us.  Not much … Continue reading →

Ow.  I’ve been Hyderized.  Deeply.  After three hours of sleep, we’re all up (I convinced Vance and Kate to sleep on my floor instead of their car.  I mean, they entertained us with a rousing revelry till 3 or 4 … Continue reading →

Woke up in the rain in Rancheria.  We thought we’d be in for a long ride, but it cleared up as we exited the Alaskan Highway for the last time and started making our way south on the Cassier Highway, … Continue reading →

“All travel is circular… After all, the grand tour is just the inspired man’s way of heading home.”   –Paul Theroux, The Great Railway Bazaar   “On that trip it was my good fortne to be wrong; being mistaken is … Continue reading →

We’re taking a break from the updates for a major announcement!  We’re currently in Hyder, Alaska (long story), and I’ll fill you in on that later, but for now, here’s the big news: MY SISTER, MERIDITH, HAD HER BABY  YESTERDAY!! … Continue reading →

We woke up to a brilliant sun shining with a crispness only found in the mountains.  It made up for all the rain yesterday – immediately. I spent most of the day trying to slow down, which takes conscious effort … Continue reading →

“Only a fool blames his bad vacation on the rain”   –Paul Theroux, To the Ends of the Earth   “Travel is not a vacation, and it is often the opposite of a rest.”   –Paul Theroux, The Old Patagonian … Continue reading →

Leaving Fairbanks this morning, it was fists pumping and feeling great to be on the bikes again rolling to a new place.  It was time to leave Fairbanks.  It felt like we’d been stuck in quicksand, and we were finally … Continue reading →

We woke up this morning foggy and really tired (as usual) after the previous evening’s festivities, but we have a plan.  We head over to the BMW dealership, and par for the course, even though it takes way too long … Continue reading →

And we’re back. It’s been a couple of hard, but fantastic days.  Sorry about this, but it’s another long one.  When you’re 100 miles south of the Arctic Circle on motorcycles, there’s a lot to say… I woke up on … Continue reading →

Woke up hurting a bit.  Stupid evil bartenders.  Perhaps we should have not opened our wine at 2:30 in the morning.  Really good at making bad decisions at night.  Add the heat of the Pakistani dining room to my hangover, … Continue reading →

Epic.  Today was beyond description, and may lame photographic skills cannot even begin to do justice to what we rode through today.  Plus, it was hard to pull over to take photos since we were just riding that sweet, smooth … Continue reading →

“Our battered suitcases were piled on the sidewalk again; we had longer ways to go.  But no matter, the road is life.”  Jack Keourac, On the Road (1958) “Dude, this might be the coolest fucking thing I’ve ever done.  And … Continue reading →

Great day of riding.  Kind of a late start, which we’d planned because we knew we had a short day today, and we both needed it.  Been having pretty serious internet problems, but finally posting. Twenty-five hundred miles from home, … Continue reading →

Here’s the daily map update on our route.  The mileage is shorter up here because we’re going a lot slower each day as the roads are more challenging, and the wildlife is everywhere.  It’s slower going, but the riding is … Continue reading →

Route update: An early start out of Havre (Harve), and as we ease out of town, it appears that the roads have gotten a bit twisty, and we’re in for a different kind of riding. Not.  That dream lasted fully … Continue reading →

Day 2 was a long day.  A long, flat, straight, wide open day. We left Grand Forks, which was a very pleasant surprise of a town, very early – around 6:30 am – and very crusty after our wine the … Continue reading →

Wow.  Yesterday was a long day.  Brad met me in Madison, and we figured there was no sense in doing anything but GTFOOWAM (getting the fuck out of Wisconsin and Minnesota), so we slabbed it.  HARD.  700 miles later, and … Continue reading →

Hello!!  Welcome to the Long Road Up!  Just a little about the trip.  There are two roads in North America that drive into the Arctic Circle.  One is the Dempster Highway, aka Yukon Highway 5 aka Northwest Territories Highway 8, … Continue reading →